Hungry for History: What’s your Parsi food craving at the 146-Year-Young Dorabjee and Sons?

Sorabjee Dorabjee, Darius’s great-grandfather, embarked on a journey from Navsari (they were farmers) to Pune, seeking better prospects. Back then, Pune had only one prominent restaurant, El Moretos, an exclusive Italian eatery and dance bar only for the British. Sorabjee, a visionary, saw an opportunity in this landscape and started a modest tea stall on the very premises where Dorabjee and Sons stands today in 1878. Initially serving bun maska and Irani chai, Sorabjee soon realized the growing demand for wholesome food. Thus, he transformed his tea stall into a restaurant that welcomed both Indians and British patrons, offering them a taste of authentic Parsi cuisine.

The legacy began with their signature biryani, which remains a best-seller to this day. Imagine a biryani so aromatic that its scent alone would announce, “This is Dorabjee’s biryani!” Back in 1940, a plate of biryani cost four annas and was enough to feed three people. This biryani, along with other dishes including the lagan nu custard, was cooked on a wood fire, a tradition that continues to this day, ensuring that the flavours remain as authentic as they were 146 years ago.

Dorabjee and Sons has always been about staying true to its roots. The menu remains unchanged, a testament to the timeless appeal of Parsi cuisine. From Sali Boti and Bheja Fry to Dhansak and Chicken Farcha, each dish tells a story of heritage and meticulous preparation. The family’s commitment to authenticity is evident in every bite, and their dedication has fostered a loyal customer base that spans generations. Darius’s grandfather, Jal Dorabjee, and his eight brothers played a pivotal role in establishing the restaurant’s reputation, particularly in catering for Parsi weddings and Navjotes. Their dedication laid a solid foundation that Darius continues to build upon.

Dorabjee and Sons has attracted its share of famous patrons. Shashi Kapoor, Rishi Kapoor, Rani Mukherjee, and the hosts of “Highway on The Plate,” Rocky and Mayur, have all enjoyed the restaurant’s timeless charm.

Building a legacy like Dorabjee and Sons has not been without its hardships. Back in Darius’s father’s time (Marazban Dorabjee), transporting food was a laborious task, often involving bullock carts. A journey to Koregaon Park, which now takes 20 minutes, would take an hour by bullock cart back then. Once, the bullocks broke free from their harness and ran off, causing the cart loaded with food and cutlery to completely crash. Every aspect of food preparation was manual, from grinding to chopping, making the process incredibly difficult.

One memorable challenge involved catering for a wedding in Udaipur. At just 25 years old, Darius catered for the Maharaja of Udaipur’s great-granddaughter’s wedding at the Lake Palace. With the palace situated in the middle of a lake, all supplies had to be transported by boat, catering for 2,000 guests. Despite the logistical nightmare and sleepless nights, he delivered an exceptional Parsi feast.

Darius’s grandfather once catered a wedding and 50 years later, Darius replicated the exact menu for the same couple’s golden wedding anniversary. Back then, the cost of catering was just ₹1.25. Such dedication to tradition and quality has solidified Dorabjee and Sons’ reputation over the years.

Darius’s story is one of passion and perseverance. He joined the family business at the tender age of 14, learning the trade from scratch under his father’s stern yet loving guidance. The sweltering heat of the kitchen and the demanding nature of the work didn’t deter him. Instead, they fuelled his commitment to maintaining the restaurant’s legacy. In 2024, Darius received the ‘Iconic Punekar Award’ for his contribution to the field of food and hospitality.

Dorabjee and Sons is not just a restaurant, but a landmark of culinary history .

Hungry yet! Comment your favourite dish below..

Freny Daruwalla wrote this piece in collaboration with Parzor exclusively for Parsi Zoroastrians Worldwide – The Hyderabadi Page