Shut since 2018, the 73-year-old museum—tucked away in a sandstone mansion in the heart of South Mumbai—reopened on Thursday after extensive renovation and upgrades, funded by the Bombay Parsi Panchayat and the Ministry of Cultural Affairs.

 FD Alpaiwala Museum features a replica of a Fire Temple. While the facade is modelled after the Maneckji Sett Agiary, the inner sanctum mirrors the Anjuman Atash Behram. (Express Photo by Ganesh Shirsekar) 

Interestingly, the museum was once the residence of Parsi bullion merchant and antique collector Framji Dadabhoy Alpaiwalla. Legend has it that unlike most collectors who allocate a percentage of their income to art collection, Alpaiwalla exercised no such restraint. His collection grew so vast that it filled his 11-room house, even taking over his bedroom—forcing him to sleep in the kitchen.

While the museum’s foundation was laid in 1951, Alpaiwalla passed away that same year, and the responsibility of curating and setting it up was given to scholar-priest and archaeologist Jamshed Maneck Unvala, who had participated in excavations at Susa. He had brought back proto-Elamite tablets, glazed bricks from the ‘Archer’s Frieze,’ buff-coloured clay vases, and even a dakhma (Tower of Silence) excavated in Yazd, Iran—gifting them all to the museum that opened its doors to public in 1952.

One of the museum’s most remarkable sections houses these archaeological discoveries from Iran, including an ancient astodan—an earthenware vessel used for bone storage—also unearthed by Unvala. Other notable exhibits include Persian antiquities, manuscripts, pre-Zoroastrian mythological paintings, mother goddess figurines associated with fertility, imperial coins and seals, and a reference library with 1,900 books.

Among the latest additions is a wall tracing the Zoroastrian migration from Iran to India. A map titled Parsi Migration Route highlights two major waves of migration to escape religious persecution after the Arab invasion: the first, from Khorasan (8th–10th centuries), who settled in Sanjan on the western coast; the second, from Yazd and Kerman in the 19th century, with many settling in Bombay.

Another striking feature is a nine-foot etched glass replica of the western staircase of Darius’ Palace at Persepolis. Originally crafted in Mumbai, it was displayed in London and Delhi for ‘The Everlasting Flame’ exhibition before finding a permanent home here.

 One of the highlights in the textile section is a 170-year-old ivory Tanchoi silk saree, adorned with peacock motifs from Sir Jamsetjee Jejeebhoy’s family crest. (Express Photo by Ganesh Shirsekar)

There’s also a spotlight on textiles. One of the highlights is a 170-year-old ivory Tanchoi silk saree, adorned with peacock motifs from Sir Jamsetjee Jejeebhoy’s family crest. The section also features a heavily embroidered Gara, as well as jhablas (tunics worn by children) and caps delicately embroidered with zari.

The museum’s extensive porcelain collection comes with a fascinating history. Parsi merchants, who sailed to China trading in opium, cotton, and other commodities, used porcelain as ballast to stabilise their ships. Upon arrival at the port, they would sell these porcelain items, which soon found their way into Parsi homes as decorative vases. Broken pieces were repurposed to create intricate mosaic flooring—an artistic legacy still visible in some Parsi households. A recreated drawing room of a Parsi China merchant captures this aesthetic, showcasing intricately carved furniture adorned with Chinese motifs. One of the most striking pieces is a round table featuring protomes of Chinese dragons.

The exchange, however, was not one-sided. Among the exhibits is a fascinating Chinese figurine—robed, bearded, and wearing a Parsi turban and hood—holding a knotted stick. Called “Soulitche,” this figure is believed to represent Zoroaster, the founder of Zoroastrianism.

The museum has also redesigned its exhibit labels to be more engaging. Currently, descriptions are available in English and Hindi, with plans to introduce Marathi and Braille translations for improved accessibility. Additionally, the museum aims to expand its team by bringing in curators and guides to assist visitors, as part of its efforts to actively engage with students and the wider public. Going forward, it will also be using the first floor of the premises to host activities and events related to the museum. Coming up soon is a workshop on the legacy of Parsi women.

Where: N S Patkar Marg, Babulnath, Khareghat Colony, Malabar Hill, Mumbai
When: Monday to Friday, 10 am to 5.30 pm